An awesome last full day in Marrakech

Our goal for the day was to get up, get some cash, get some lunch, see the old palace, get our daughter a henna tattoo and then to a fancy touristic dinner at the end of the day. After we got some cash we started walking towards the old palace looking for a spot to eat at along the way. We just happened to enter one non-descript hole in the wall that turned out to be a huge palace from the 1600's. Alfred Hitchcock filmed a movie there. Sean Connery had eaten there and we had this huge palace all to ourselves. Really really amazing. Really really cool.

After lunch we walked though the heat some more to the ruins of the old palace. This area was set up with stages for the Marrakech popular arts festival.

By the time we were done with the palace, our daughter had melted.

After some water and a spot to rest awhile she was revived enough to enjoy getting a henna tattoo (permanent for about 2 weeks).

Sleeping, Souks and Surfing

We slept in until, well, until late today. this photo was taken at noon. Our kids are still in pajamas. Our niece . . . (shhhh, read quietly, she's still sleeping)

We walked over to the Souks, the small shops on the small twisty streets. They are a bit more shaded so it wasn't actually very horrible during the hottest part of the day. We were able to find some nice leather goods and a few other baubles to take back to the States with us.

After some shopping in the Souks we had a very late lunch and went back to our Riad for a swim and to take a short nap out of the heat. Our plan was to join a Couch Surfing meeting taking place at a local cafe. This would be our chance to meet some locals and ex-pats who might be able to show us a better side of Marrakech. Unfortunately, nobody showed up. The cafe had no food so we had a couple of Cokes and some icky coffee and banana drinks and headed off in search of some food and an early night back at our Riad.

Cooking class

We took a cooking class at a swanky resort. For us this was a nice break from the real Morocco.

Aye, what manly men we are.

If enough of the work is pre-done Laurel actually enjoys cooking.

The results were by far the best food we had in Morocco (and by far the most expensive (but worth it)).

Adjusting to Marrakesh

It takes some time to adjust to Marrakesh so we elected to keep it simple. We went to a shopping area that sells things at fixed prices so that we do not have to barter. This way we can learn what prices should be before we are eaten by the sharks.

We took a carriage ride to get back to the main square near our Riad.

We made a quick stop on the way back for a Camel ride.

This is the picture that we intended to get of the snake charmers in the main square. What I ended up going through to get it is another story.

First full day in Marrakech

The Djemma al Fna main plaza is the main destination for tourists but is probably one of the riskiest places for them. Away from the plaza and the Souks I believe that Marrakech is a decent city with decent people. And indeed, a high percentage of people in the square are decent people. But with so many people in a given area there are definitely some who are not.

I am in search of a better side of Marrakesh. We have certainly met some wonderful local people. Hopefully we will meet more.

Marrakesh, some first impressions

When you are flying into Marrakech it is like flying into a cotton field. Each building has from 1 to 5 big white round satellite dishes of different sizes. The overall effect is live looking at a cotton field after all the plants have dried and turned brown, the leaves have dropped leaving nothing but brown sticks and a brown field with white balls of cotton.

The street are full. Really full. At first I was really impressed by the use of donkeys. Then I was really impressed by the number of motor cycles and scooters and just how crazy they drove. Then I was impressed by the number of accidents and the fact that no one really cared enough to slow down.

The pushcart that brought our luggage to our Riad is a very common mode of transportation.

No pictures, no video, no amount of words or oration can describe the complete and utter chaos, the heat without air conditioning, the screaming of competing music and vendors, the smells of people and animals and food and spices, the constant jostling and grabbing and pushing, the continuous blur of movement and sounds and smells. All of this then abruptly parts to a man who suddenly throws a snake on you without your permission and yells "cobra!" while another blocks your family and places a larger monkey on your terrified niece. This is Marrakesh: highly interesting and well out of my comfort zone.

Arrival on Marrakexh Morocco

Just off the plane the Arabic writing on the airport was the first indication that we were heading someplace very different. Our driver failed to meet us at the airport so we hired a taxi and headed to the main square hoping to locate our Riad (guest house/small hotel)

The taxi driver arranged to have this guy carry our luggage to our riad from the main square (Djemma al fna). Unfortunately he did not know where our riad was either, but got us to a smaller square where we enlisted the help of some young boys who got us to our Riad.

There were so many people, donkeys, motor cycles, bicycles, cars and bulldozers in the tiny streets it was very difficult to keep an eye on our luggage.

After successfully getting to our Riad a relaxing lunch in an air-conditioned restaurant was exactly what was needed.

Madrid Spain

Our apartment was a perfect fit for us. Perhaps the best of the trip. Nice area and comfortable.

The area around the presidential palace was very upscale.

We just happened to be there for one of the changing of the guard ceremonies.

Ah, the Iowa. Serving fresh porkchops and mash potatos from who knows where. Not to be outdone, one street over and slightly more upscale is the Nebraska. Go figure. Funny what makes up exotic foreign food!

Touring Aarau

While Tobias and I bicycled outside of town, Suzanna and Laurel took all of the kids on a tour of Aarau.

Any town with bronze monkeys hanging around has their priorities correct. (Fun first!)

The town was very pretty and had so much going on. With only 17,000 people it made our town of 15,000 feel like it had only 5000.

Switzerland, scenic? Who would have thought it?

Aarau Switzerland

We spent our days in Aarau Switzerland with the wonderful Linder family.

This is Tobias's BBQ grill. In Tobia's words and accent: "This is sutch a daum nitce grill." It was really nice for us that their English was so good that we could really enjoy each other's sense of humor.

I have to admit that this daum nitce grill made some "daum nitce piedza". I think that our son agrees.

What a wonderful family. The Linders remind me of what I hope our family was like 10 years ago. They are such nice people. Warm, generous and friendly. We miss them already.

Leaving Besancon France

This is some of us with Eric and Ely, our hosts in Besancon.

Our sons had a good time getting all their energy out.

This is my new Bronze friend ala Cobert style.

Besancon was definitely one of the prettiest cities that we have visited this summer. If we were to choose 1 place to spend a year in Europe out of the places we have visited so far this summer this would definitely be it. The people living there were friendly to us and stopped to say hello to each other on the street. People seemed relatively happy with their lives and the city had a good healthy vibe to it. At this point we have spent nearly 2 months traveling and are getting tired of everything being an extra struggle with the unfamiliar. We are currently thinking that when we spend a year somewhere it will be at our condo in Mexico just to keep things easy. Of course, another 2 months from now when we've had a chance to recover a bit, who knows what we'll be thinking.. Our exchange student will definitely get a lot of empathy when she gets homesick and overwhelmed. (been there, done that, but not for a whole school year completely on my own).

Besancon France

Trunnelbach falls

At 5am in the morning it was clear enought to see out the window of our hostel. By 7am when we were up it had mostly clouded over.

We took the sideways elevator up the inside of the mountain to see the falls cheared by the runoff of two glaciers.

It was very impressive. My camera was low on batteries so I have very few shots of it. This is corkscrew falls named for the way the water twists though the rocks at this point.

Yeah! Some sun and a view! Time to leave Switzerland quickly before it starts to rain again!

Through the Alps through the rain

Our hike across the Alps was much as you see here.

Our family had a good attitude dispite the long hike, the dissapointing view, and the pouring rain.

We hiked for 8 miles past misty hillsides and cows with loudly ringing bells.

Until we reached a train station in the middle of a deluge. It was time to call it quits for the day,

Disappointment in the Alps

We arrived in Geneva late in the evening. It is a beautiful but unfortunately I have no pictures to prove it. The next moring we drove to Grindelwald were we took a cable car up into the Alps were we were to walk across a ridge and back down into Grindlewald (around 12 to 14 miles)

Unfortunately the weather was rainy and cloud covered.

Unfortunately this was about as clear as it got. There are huge mountains all around that we could not see. I know that it would have been spectacular if we could have seen it. Instead it was wet.

These carins in the fog looked rather spooky.

Day 1 post race wrapup

At the end of the day the Swiss rider Fabine Cancellara was still in yellow. We atarted the walk back across the country to our hotel.

We were quite incredulous at Monoco's strick anti Schnauzer laws. ;-) (we own 2 miniture schnauzers)

This is dispite the fact that they allow cats.

And bears are welcome. It was time to leave Monoco.

Tour de France Day 1 2009

From our highside location we could just make out the riders as they passed below.

And then they were flying up the hill. I had always been told to choose a hill location to watch the tour. Otherwise the riders pass too quickly. Even at the top of a small hill the riders where quickly here.

And then gone.

The only thing remaining being the caravan strung out for miles afterwards.

TDF Day one pre race

Monoco is nice, it is hot, it is humid, but it is nice. Our son and I walked to the Monte Carlo Casino across town where the grand caravan of sponsors and the race was departing from.

More floats and swag similar to the day before, but this time we were in the right place to get some goodies.

Since we were already across town coming from just across the boarder in France, out son wanted to complete the walk across the country to the oposite boarder going the longer length of the country. We did this an so ended up staged on a highside in France to watch the Tour de France.

We had time for a quick dip in the Med before the riders came by.

Post Prologue

This was as close to the awards ceremony as we could get. Why they announced to the crowd to come to the ceremony is beyond me. There was room for maybe 1/50th of the people trying to attend.

Ah TDF bliss. A table all to myself. Just me, a beer, my 5 sweaty hats and my giant green Peruvian man purse.




The table next to me was still going strong even after 7 hours in the hot sun watching cycling all day. My family did awesome.

TDF Prologue 2009

Getting ready for the Prologue

Arrival in Monoco

Tour of Milan

Milano

All tourists in Milano flock to the Duomo. It really is spectacular. If you are a tourist in Milan you should flock there. The stairs to the upper deck were closed when we wanted to climb them. We skipped the climb, but the upper deck is purported to have the best view of Milan that you can get.

We came cross the Scala Opera house and found that the event for the evening was a Ballet set to the music of Pink Floyd. After a search for tickets we found that we could get box seats with a really really obstructed view for around $500. However, the gentleman at the ticket office was very kind and explained the process to get gallery tickets for $10 each. The seats would also be bad but the cost would at least somewhat match. An hour later we had our tickets to a basically sold out show.

The shopping mall in downtown Milan was even fancier than the Walmart in Payson AZ. Actually, for the price of a wardrobe from the Prada store where we did our window shopping, you could buy the Walmart in Payson AZ.

The Scala theater was very large and spectacular. Boxes are arranged not so much to see the show as to be seen. As a result, you could not actually see the stage (at all) while being seated in out seats. Our row was fitted with hand rails so that you could stand up and lean over the row in front of you to see the show. The show itself was, well, interesting.. The first 2 songs featured nothing but guys in tights and no shirts doing pelvic thrusts. The children thought that the show was "weird". The show did get better and became more of something that you would see at the halftime of the Superbowl and less of a Chippendale's routine. 1/2 way though our son and I left to use the restroom. We were not allowed back in but were instead directed to the center of the second gallery were we had awesome seats where we could see the whole stage. These seats were somewhat wasted on us but there was no way to let the others know that they should change seats.

Leaving the Czech Republic

Before we left the Czech Republic we sent some packages home to ourselves (via Lydia's house).

This is the town barber in the small town near Osice. One of these words means "barber" but I cannot remember which one.

Neither the woman who took this picture nor the barber spoke a work of English. She also had never used a camera before. Not too bad for her first picture!

It was then time to say goodbye to our good friends Marcela and Petr. We will really miss them. They made so many things possible for us in the Czech Republic. Visiting friends like these is really the best way to travel! We hope to see them again soon. Perhaps in the USA, Mexico, or back in Europe.

I have decided that the Czech people are the best looking people in the world. It may be that Petr and Marcela just have very good looking family and friends. Of course the fact that I am Czech and can include myself remotely in this group places no bias on my judgement whatsoever! ;-)

Home with Thomas and Luci

After the airshow we visited Thomas and Luci's house. Luci's parents own a lumber mill. Thomas and Luci are currently living on site in an apartment while they are building their house.

Luci collects teabags, boardgames, match sticks, yogurt labels, wooden stamps, food labels etc etc. We used to say "Marcela" was short for crazy Czech lady. Now we can just say "Luci".

We had a very nice dinner outside despite it threatening to rain.

The kids clayed a Czech boardgame after dinner. If fun and volume are related it is safe to say that they had an AWESOME!!! time.

Air Show

After our visit to Terezin a trip to the Czech airshow was a much welcome change of pace. We had never been to an air show before.

The carnival like atmosphere was accentuated with rides and food.

The Red Bull acrobatic team was there as well as the Czech version of Air Force One. Czech Army jets (made by the Swiss I think) screamed by.

The helicopters did a low level tango with each other. Several times I flashed on all of the airshow tragedy footage they are always showing on the "when accidents happen" TV shows.

Terezin - Not a happy place

We thought that it was important to visit a former concentration camp at least once. It was an educational experience.

Terezin was not a "death camp" per-se. Intellectuals and other "enemies of the state" were kept here. The Jews were in the Getto in the larger part of the city. I had always thought that the bulk of the Jews killed were killed in the gas chambers as part of the final solution. This is not true. The majority were kept in horrible horrible conditions. Conditions that make bulk animal farming look very humane. You could look at examples of these conditions and think "there is no way you could survive is those conditions". That is correct and the people who were keeping you there did not care. People were worked to death, froze to death, starved to death or died of disease or suffocation in the super crowded conditions.

"Work will set you free." This slogan was used by the Nazis and later by the communist party after the war.

The gas chamber was not used at Terezin. This was a real shower room. Transport for Terezin to "death camps" such as Aushwitz was regularly around 1000 people. Usually between 2 and 18 of each 1000 survived the camps. Shipment after shipment is logged in the books.

Osice

We arrived from big city Vienna to the very small town of Osice (pop ~500). Here we are picking cherries just outside of our friend's town. Very very tasty!

We visited a local museum in a neighboring town that displayed many of the jobs people have traditionally worked. For us, the most interesting thing that Petr told us about was the Easter egg tradition. Girls will hand paint fancy eggs. Boys make a special stick out of a fresh willow tree branch. The boys will go to the girls' houses and sing a special Czech song that Petr sang for us. It basically says "You must give me a fancy colored egg!" The boy must then hit the girl on the butt with the stick and she gives him an egg. This was all very strange and interesting to us. I still do not quite understand how the dynamics work in this. Petr says that the closest thing we have to this would be trick-or-treat.

Our daughter really enjoyed getting to spend some time with Pavel and Wendy's daughter.

Only two more days of school left for Czech students. Pavel and Wendy's children demonstrate how they are currently feeling about school.

Palace Museum

These were some of the more interesting displays from the Armory and the Treasury of the Hofburg Palace in Vienna.

When attending a ceremony it was important for a knight to dress appropriately.

The crown of the Holy Roman Empire.

The holy grail. The history of this object is unclear. Some purport it to be the vessel that was used to catch the blood of Christ as he was crucified.

Beautiful Vienna

I have heard two different things about Vienna. One is that it is a wonderful vibrant city with much to offer (but expensive). The other is that it is an empty shell of a city milking the tourist trade with it's bygone trappings of it's glory days. I have not been in Vienna long. While there is a healthy tourism industry in Vienna I can comfortably say that whoever made the later statement is full of crap. Vienna is awesome. We would like to return someday to see it properly.

The only real negative thing I can say about Vienna during our short stay is that it was raining. I mean RAINING. There was flooding like they had not had in 50 years. One art gallery was being forced to evacuate many of their priceless painting for fear of water damage.

We didn't really see any sign of the flooding ourselves and were basically unaffected except for all of the rain.

The Hofburg Palace was amazing. This photo is the steps in the Armory Museum within the Palace.

To Vienna Austria

We stopped back in Czesky Krumlov to do some rafting and Kayaking (Pavel & Thomas being the Kayakers).

The river around Czesky Krumlov has a series of slucegates which helps keep the otherwise slow river interesting. One raft flipped going through the largest gate. We took a bad line through the same gate. While we didn't end up flipping, Petr ending up hitting quite a wall of water.

Our niece ended up looking all "pro" in borrowed equipment.

After an easy 3 hour drive with no checkpoint at the border we arrived safely at our appartment in Vienna. Quite tired from the previous week we spent one whole day doing nothing but laundry, grocery shopping, and catching up on our blog.

Czesky Krumlov

Ceske Krumlov is perhaps the second most visited place in the Czech Republic after Praha(Prague). We were lucky that our visit was timed with an annual festival. We first arrived in the city of Ceske Brodovice (sic) and found a very nice town square but really nothing else noteworthy. People at the information center looked perplexed when we asked about a festival and a castle. We found a spot for lunch and a quick check of our navigation system revealed that we were in the wrong Ceske.

For a few Czech crowns you could fire a quiver of arrows at some circular spiral targets fashioned out of straw.

We were amazed at the length of this procession though the town. There must have been 1/2 a kilometer of people dressed in period costume. Many of them famous Czech actors. All the more impressive as it was raining. The women's long dresses were beginning to act as mops. Such was life in the middle ages I guess.

In the town square many vendors had set up and were making the equivalent of fair food. These mini doughnuts were nothing but melty gooey goodness.